Sri Lanka is still under the radar for a lot of tourists, but in the last year, it has been popping up on my Instagram news feed. This island nation, situated just south of India in the Indian Ocean, is known as one of the most scenic countries in the world.
Every year, my friends and I travel to Southeast Asia between January and March (the best time to go to most Southeast Asian countries), but Sri Lanka is tricky because of its location on the map. The nation is climatically divided; one side is beautiful, sunny and hot, while it is monsoon season on the other side.
Therefore, we decided to skip the rainy part and head for the sun, beaches and warm weather along the southern coast.
After researching a bit, we found that many travelers start in Colombo then move to Kandy/Sigiriya then to the south, but we decided to do the opposite and go from Colombo along the southern coastline toward Yala, then from Ella toward Kandy. And, of course, we did the famous seven-hour train ride!
Check out all the things we did and places we stayed below.
Colombo
My friends and I arrived at different times because we were all coming from separate parts of the world. We decided to stay at the Cinnamon Red Colombo for two nights and three days, which would give us a day or two to shake off our jet lag. The hotel is quite nice, and the beds are super comfy. The hotel has a rooftop pool, gym and bar area, which brings in quite a crowd on the weekends. We booked our stay through a third-party website and opted to add on the breakfast which was buffet-style with a large selection of Sri Lankan and Western dishes. I was pretty impressed with the meal.
Ministry of Crab at the Old Dutch Hospital (one of the oldest buildings in Colombo and used to be a hospital when the Dutch occupied Sri Lanka in the 1600s) has to be the best thing I did in Colombo since I’m quite the seafood lover. We tried to make dinner reservations, but it was fully booked four nights out. The lunch menu is the same as the dinner menu, so we decided to eat there for lunch.
They have a wide selection of crabs in different sizes; we ordered two large and one jumbo crab, all prepared in different sauces (peppercorn, garlic chili and original chili). Our favorite was the original chili crab sauce. We also ordered the prawn fried rice, Japanese-style crab fried rice and Kade bread.
If I were going to the death chair, I would want Ministry of Crab as my last meal! Everything was delicious except the Kade bread. We ordered the bread at the beginning of our meal because we were too hungry to wait, but it was nothing special—just a thick, fluffy bread.
Gangaramaya Buddhist Temple was one of the places I wanted to visit the most. Everyone entering the temple had to pay an entrance fee of Rs 200. As with most religious sites, we had to take our shoes off and cover our legs. The temple provides a piece of cloth to wrap around as a skirt.
The temple is vast, with many different sections. I was a bit confused because I did not feel like I was in a temple but rather at an antique shop with different Buddhas placed all around the establishment. There was a huge stuffed elephant at one end of the building with pieces of furniture surrounding it. The second floor had a meeting room with chairs placed in uniform rows like you might see at a conference. I found a 1900s-style lift which didn’t seem to work and was only there as decoration. I went back downstairs to explore and found two or three 1950s antique Chevy cars. Everything seemed to be so out of place. It was interesting to see, but I wouldn’t go back there unless I was going to pray or pay my respects to the gods.
Pettah Market was very chaotic and fun! We walked down several different streets, and all of them were packed with people walking, selling and buying goods. If you’re looking for merchandise, this is the place to go! If you’re not looking to buy, it’s a great place to watch people and be one with the crowd.
All that walking got you tired? There were food vendors throughout the area, so pick up a snack and support the locals. <wink, wink>
Unawatuna
Initially, we were planning to stay in the Galle Fort area, but we wanted to be close to the beach. We had read such beautiful things about Unawatuna, a small beach town south of Galle Fort, that we decided to go for it.
Villa Thawthisa, our hotel for two nights, was a bit further up the road from the central beach area. We did not have much of a selection since we booked only two weeks before our arrival. The hotel is beautiful and big with two main swimming pools; some rooms even come with their own private pool. Those lucky few never have to leave their room!
The hotel is walking distance to the beach and is great for an avid walker, but if you do not want to break a sweat, it's better to wait for the shuttle that the hotel provides for their guests.
The breakfast was not great. It was buffet style, but there was not much of a selection. If I were booking this hotel again, I would opt out of the breakfast and instead, find a local cafe and eat there.
We spent our first evening at one of the beach shacks, just sitting on a daybed, relaxing, people watching and having refreshments. There were a lot of rinky-dink shacks, bars and eateries scattered about. A couple of small, local companies were set up on the beach and offered water activities such as snorkeling, wave running and parasailing.
It was nice to be on the beach, but we weren’t very impressed with it. My friends and I even wondered if we were in the right place. Was this the beautiful beach town we had all read about or were we missing something? Overall, we weren’t too impressed by Unawatuna.
Galle
The next day, we took a tuk-tuk to the Galle Fort area, which is an interesting town with a lot of old Dutch influence. The small town is filled with lots of boutiques, eateries and art.
As we wandered, we found this cute little place called Maison de Raux. Initially, we went in thinking it was a shop but saw people sitting in a courtyard and eating food. Through the courtyard was the entrance to a boutique hotel.
We eagerly set ourselves up on the rooftop to enjoy a chiller and some snacks. We ordered the prawns and a cucumber tapas dish. The sauce on the prawns was absolutely delicious. It was exactly what we needed after frolicking around Galle Fort all afternoon. Our whole experience at Maison de Raux was perfect!
Mirissa
Our next hotel, D Canal, was situated inland on one of the back streets off the main road, most restaurants and accommodations are nearby.
We opted for the bungalow which was bigger than my 300 sq. ft. apartment in New York! Each bungalow had a kitchen, bedroom, huge bathroom and patio. The grounds were covered with lush greenery, man-made ponds, exotic animals and had a river in the back. We were like little kids, watching creatures come out of hiding and peacocks flying from tree to tree. We had no idea peacocks could fly; what a bunch of city kids we are!
The pool was the perfect size to do laps or waddle around in. The provided breakfast was very simple: pastries, bread, a plate of fruit and eggs.
All around, the service was excellent! If I ever go back to Mirissa, I will stay here again.
I loved Mirissa Beach. It was a bit livelier than Unawatuna; there were many cute eateries along the waterfront, and they were more up to date. We fancied one place called Kama and went two days in a row.
One night, we went to a Jamaican themed place (next to Kama) for refreshments and beachfront sunset watching.
If you are in Mirissa, you must eat at Dewini Roti Shop. It serves local cuisine, and the portions are sizeable. The food was absolutely delicious and the price unbeatable. A plate of roti and an order of chicken and vegetable fried rice was less than $4 USD/Rs 640, so between three of us, we ordered about eight plates of food. We ate until we were stuffed!
D Canal helped us arrange a car to Tangalle. We had a lot of luggage with us, so we needed a large vehicle. My suitcase was the biggest (SMH). The total cost from Mirissa to Tangalle in an eight-seater van was about $64 USD/Rs 10,000. A car would usually cost half the price, so we learned our lesson to pack light!
Ranna (Tangalle)
Off the beaten path, we go!
The hotel Seven Turtles is about fifteen kilometers from Tangalle and only steps away from the most beautiful, pristine beach in Sri Lanka. The road to get there was off the beaten path, as is the case in most beautiful places. On the last leg of our drive, the streets were unpaved and narrow, and we drove along what seemed to be a man-made lake where a cow was taking a bath. Finally, we reached our hotel at the very end of the road.
Seven Turtles’ main building has three floors with sea and garden view rooms. It also has two private, sea-facing bungalows which were our rooms. I was a bit disappointed because the bungalow shutters blocked our views for privacy, so we couldn’t see the ocean from our room at all. Both rooms were large and had a sitting area as well as an outdoor terrace with two sun beds. The hotel had a good-sized pool, bar and dining area close to the beach. A few daybeds were situated closer to the beach, which was great! We camped out on these beds the whole time we were at Seven Turtles.
Our visit to Seven Turtles happened to coincide with Valentine’s Day, so we decided to have a feast! We were asked to pre-order our meals as soon as we settled in because the cook had to go to the market—a good indication of fresh ingredients! We ordered a salad, gazpacho soup, fish, seafood pasta and the fish cakes. It was the perfect Valentine’s Day dinner.
The breakfast was even better! There was a wide selection of dishes on the a la carte menu, and all the dishes came with coffee or tea, fruit juice and a plate of fresh fruit. I ordered the oatmeal in coconut milk which could easily have fed two people. My friends ordered the vegetable omelet with Sri Lankan peppers. I’m salivating right now as I think about our breakfast. It was good for the soul but be careful because the portions are big and mean trouble for anyone looking to watch their waist size.
Ranna Beach was my favorite of them all! Although the water was a lot rougher, the beach was clean, very quiet and there weren’t many people taking millions of selfies. I felt like I was on my own deserted island. It was such a serene place to watch the sunset and listen to the waves crash; I could have stayed there forever.
Although we didn’t get to explore Tangalle or other nearby places, we were more than content with our time to rest in Ranna. We had a busy week coming up!
Kirinda
Kirinda is a coastal fishing village in the Southern Province. It is about thirteen kilometers away from Yala National Park. Many tourists bypass this town because it is not well known, but it has beautiful beaches and cheaper accommodations than those near Yala National Park.
The Beach Camp is situated on the beach, facing the Indian Ocean, and houses seven tents. It is closed off by a low fence to keep the wild animals away, but guests can see the water and enjoy the picturesque view while listening to the lovely ocean sounds.
We were stoked to stay here because we had never stayed in a glamping tent before. While researching, we found a great deal through a third-party website for about $40 USD a night. Score!
Our tent had a queen-size bed, fan, mahogany wood desk and handmade coir mat covering the entire floor. The bathroom was big, clean and functional.
Unfortunately, because of the location, there was no Wi-Fi, but their sister hotel, Elephant Reach Hotel, was minutes away by tuk-tuk. The guests at Beach Camp are welcome to use their facility free of charge. A little warning, though—it was not worth going to the Elephant Reach Hotel. The Wi-Fi was a bit spotty, and the place is nowhere as nice as Beach Camp. We took a dip, ate—though the food was not so good, either—and came right back to Beach Camp within the hour.
The manager at Beach Camp was fantastic—one of the best I’ve met in all my travels. He was very informative and cared for all our needs. He wore many hats, including being a safari excursion guide for one of the guests at the establishment. He was known as a conservationist with extensive knowledge of the wildlife in Sri Lanka.
The breakfast and dinner were nothing spectacular, unfortunately. The options for dinner were fish, chicken, or vegetable curry, served with rice, potatoes, coleslaw and vegetables. The breakfast was very simple: a plate of fruit, one piece of bacon, eggs and sausage that looked like an American hot dog.
However, if you decide to venture off to find a place, good luck! There is one restaurant next door but nothing else for a few kilometers, so you will need to hire a Tuk-tuk.
Beach Camp offers a safari option for a very affordable price. It was not an option when we booked Beach Camp on the third-party website, but guests can arrange it upon arrival at the hotel.
Yala
We stayed at two different places in Yala, Wilderness Camp and Wild Coast Lodge, because we wanted to experience the best of both worlds. Plus, Wild Coast Lodge was quite expensive, and I was on a budget.
Wilderness Camp was another glamping tent place but situated in the middle of the forest.
I thought Tangalle was a bit tricky to get to, but this place won the prize. They sent one of their drivers to pick us up at Beach Camp because our initial ride had gotten into a fender bender. We were a bit relieved that they sent a driver because there was no way we would have found this place on our own, as it is hidden deep in the forest. There are no signs, and toward the end of the ride, we were driving on dirt roads that were barely visible to the eyes.
The lodge only accommodates up to six guests. They have two tents which are located at different ends of the campground. There is a dining area as well as a living area where guests can chill out. Wilderness Camp is near Yala National Park and holds a possibility of animals straying from their natural habitat. For safety, there is an electrical fence around the camp.
When we booked our stay with Wilderness Camp, we opted for the safari package, which included the entrance fee to Yala National Park, a driver, a guide and breakfast.
Yala National Park
We left our campsite at five in the morning, a bit later than we meant to, due to my friend waking up late. By the time we got to the ticketing area, there were hundreds of safari trucks waiting in line to get into the park.
Once we made it inside the park, we could see the safari trucks racing after one another to track animals, especially the leopard. There were many safari trucks packed with eight to ten people. We were grateful to have only three of us in our truck.
According to a lot of reviews, the park is rugged and hot. All the safari trucks have roofs, though, so the sun wasn’t beaming down on our heads. It does get hot toward midday, but we had left the park by that time. We only did half a day, but it was more than enough time to see a lot of wildlife.
We saw many elephants, deer, sloths, water buffalo and a leopard hunting a rabbit. That was the highlight of the whole tour because they don’t guarantee that you will see a leopard. But we saw it!
After we got back to Wilderness Camp, we had a delicious lunch and checked out.
Wild Coast Lodge is a luxury resort situated in the jungle, facing the Indian Ocean and adjacent to Yala National Park. Each tented cocoon is made from French canvas with high, vaulted ceilings.
The cocoon decor is reminiscent of a colonial expedition with top-notch amenities. My favorites were the handmade copper bathtub and a sailor-esque toilet room.
Around the resort grounds are wild monkeys just chilling out. We were even told to call staff to get a chaperone at night because there might have been a leopard lurking around. The dining area, bar, pool and library were closer to the ocean side of the resort, giving guests a picturesque view while eating or lounging on the day beds.
The resort has many packages; we opted for the bed and breakfast, which was more on the affordable side for us.
It was a sweet treat after being one with mother nature for two days. I would 150% stay here again!
Ella
It was time to make our way to the central highlands, which was about a three-hour drive. The further inland you get, the temperature drops, making it a lot cooler. On our way, we were passing Ravana Falls, so our driver stopped on the side of the road for us to stretch our legs and see the beautiful falls.
Ravana Height is a family-owned hotel and is situated a few kilometers from the falls.
The place is located off the main road that runs toward the center of town. The center of town is about a fifteen-minute walk away.
The hotel does not have any staff to help with luggage, since it’s only the owner and his tiny wife who run the place. Therefore, pack lightly because you will be carrying your own luggage up to your room.
Ravana Height serves a three-course breakfast: fruit, a banana rolled crepe with either coconut or sweet palm syrup and an omelet with toast. The banana rolled crepe was to die for. I wanted to eat my friend’s serving as well as mine.
The hotel has a tuk-tuk driver for their guests who doesn’t jack up the price. It’s a great idea to have them call their driver for you so you get the most accurate pricing.
We hiked Little Adam’s Peak which is excellent for beginner hikers. It has about 300 steps and is not dangerous.
Once at the top of the peak, there are many little spots where you can take Instagram-worthy pics.
Afterward, we walked to Nine Arches Bridge but had to hike down this narrow, steep, unpaved path from the lookout point. It was a bit dangerous, so if you’re not keen to go off the beaten path, then I would not suggest walking from Little Adam’s Peak to Nine Arches Bridge.
Personally, I didn’t mind the off the beaten pathway. It was a great way to see Nine Arches Bridge from a different angle.
We ended up getting a tuk-tuk (there are a bunch parked by the tunnel) to town which cost about 700 rupees but should have cost about 500 rupees. After witnessing the winding, narrow, unpaved condition of the road, though, we decided it was worth the 700 rupees.
Cafe Chill was one of my favorite places in town. This cafe is huge. They have tons of seating in the back and upstairs, though as a passerby, you would think it was a small cafe. We loved the top floor because we were able to lounge on bean bags, order drinks and food. We came back here two days in a row. It was very chill!
We had dinner at a cute place called Cafe Guru by our hotel. I ordered the Shanghai noodles with chicken and seafood, but the seafood was not fresh. It was frozen seafood from a bag. I picked all the seafood out and ate everything else. As my friends said, “We are in the mountains. If you want seafood, you need to be by the ocean.” Everything else was great!
The Train Ride From Ella To Kandy
The train ride was one of the most amazing things we did in Sri Lanka. It was the highlight of our trip. I know seven hours seems long, but it went by so fast because we were having so much fun taking pics, admiring the landscape and dangling our feet out the car door.
It seems like many people don’t do the complete Ella to Kandy trip. Our train was packed when we got on, but by the time we were at the tenth stop, a lot of people had gotten off.
We purchased our tickets through a third-party company before going to Sri Lanka. There was no other way to get tickets. Each of us ended up buying first and second-class seats. We read that the second class had no air condition, so we were scared.
The first class was comfortable, quiet and cool. But the second class was not bad; with the train moving, the breeze came in through all the open windows.
Kandy
I wasn’t too impressed with Kandy. After a week and a half of visiting Tangalle, Yala, and Ella, Kandy felt like a major city with lots of congestion and traffic. We stayed one night, and we didn’t do much.
We stayed at Aria Hills. The place was out of the way from the center of town, and there was road construction in front of the hotel. The rooms were small and nicely decorated, and the breakfast was good, but I wouldn’t stay here again. The location was not at all ideal.
After the seven-hour train ride, we were famished. We took a tuk-tuk to the center of town and went to the Empire Cafe. The decor was very colorful, and the service was superb. We ordered the mezze plate for two, kandy king salad, club ceylon wrap, slow veg wrap, special of the day, and a strawberry and cinnamon milkshake. Everything about this place was scrumptious!
Sigiriya Rock
Sigiriya Citadel Rock, also known as the Lion’s Rock, is located in Dambulla, about three hours northeast of Kandy. The fortress is the main attraction for this little town and always brings in crowds of tourists.
Luckily, we were able to stay at Zinc Journey Hotel which was close to the Sigiriya Rock Fortress. It was a pleasant fifteen-minute walk from the hotel door to the ticket entrance.
We went around seven in the morning, and there were already a good amount of people waiting to buy tickets. The ticket cost about $30 USD/Rs 4,650. They accept rupees as well as American dollars.
Overall, the hike was very easy. There were many steps and railings to help people get to the top, but if you’re afraid of heights, then this is not for you. Because of its near vertical walls, the man-made steps are pretty steep.
Once you get to the top, the view is incredible. You are also able to see the ruins of the ancient civilization that once existed on the flat summit.
On our way down, we noticed the number of people on their way up. It was bumper to bumper traffic. We were relieved that we had woken up early to go! The site opens up at 7 am, so I suggest you get there around that time.
There are many small places to eat on the same street as Zinc Journey. We walked out of our hotel, turned left, went to one of the local restaurants and grabbed some chicken fried rice. It cost about $3 USD/Rs 475 with water. The hotel food was okay, though it was nothing spectacular and overpriced.
We hired a car to take us back to Colombo since we had to catch our return flight. We were going to stop at Dambulla Caves, but the driver informed us that we would need to climb to see the temple cave. We didn’t want to be hot and sweaty on our flight, so we just went straight to the airport.
Overall, Sri Lanka was a great country to visit. Next time, I will check out the northern side of the country.
Tips
- Best time to go:
- Southern coast, west, and central highlands from December to March.
- North and east coast from April to September.
- There are a few tuk-tuks with meters, so be sure to have them turn it on.
- A tuk-tuk (one-way) from Unawatuna to Galle costs about Rs 250, but going back to Unawatuna, we paid Rs 400.
- A hired a car/taxi from Unawatuna to Mirissa costs about Rs 5,000.
- A hired car/taxi from Mirissa to Tangalle costs about Rs 5,500.
- Looking to hire a car? Contact “Taxi Sri Lanka.” They are very quick to respond by email. They hire local drivers to take you to your final destination. I did my own research and came across this company on the internet. The price is a lot more reasonable, and I did not have to try and haggle down a price. I highly recommend them (not a paid sponsorship) http://taxisrilanka.info/index.html
- Establishments in Yala outsource and hire licensed safari drivers/guides and mark up their price about 150% to guests. I would highly recommend finding a safari driver and guide on your own.
Here is our safari guide’s info: Yala Park Licensed Safari Guide: Sampath A Galappaththi +94 76 87 22 581 Email: support@yalaadventureteam.com FB: Sampath Galappaththi www.yalaadventureteam.com
- The Beach Camp in Kirinda’s safari tour was a lot less expensive than many other places! If you’re looking to save some money, stay in Kirinda, it's not that far from Yala National Park.
- The early morning in Yala Park was a bit chilly, so I would bring a light jacket then take it off as the sun rises.
- Bring baby wipes or toilet paper while traveling in Sri Lanka. There were many times when bathrooms did not have toilet paper.
- Buy the train ticket in advance to guarantee you get on board. One backpacker tried to buy her ticket at the train station, and there were no tickets for the next three days (esp. high season). We booked our tickets through, Visit Sri Lanka Tours.
- Travel with smaller bills, especially on the train, because men with refreshments and food get on at most of the stops, and the snacks don’t cost much as well as you will have to pay to use public restrooms.
- Sigiriya Fortress is doable on your own. You do not need a guide!
Happy Travels!
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